If you’re remotely close to the writing community around this time of year, you might have heard of Nanowrimo, the writing challenge where writers of all skill levels aim for 50,000 words during the month of November. I’ve participated in the past, but wanted to switch things up a bit and focus on sewing instead. In the same way Nano helped me learn writing skills and create a schedule for myself with a distinct reward at the end, I wanted to mimic the same effect in my sewing and hopefully learn something in the process.
So here we are! A self-dubbed SewMo for one. I chose to make an 18th century riding habit based on this painting of Nancy Fortescue from 1745.
The few differences I’m changing are that I’m using a much larger (frankly ridiculous) hat I got years ago, that I’m using white wool instead of navy, and that I’m making a waistcoat to go with it too. Even though I love the blue and gold theme, I ultimately wanted something to wear my hat with, and the hat is ivory.
All of my differences boil down to: Nancy here looks like she might actually go hunting/riding in her outfit. I want to look like I might go hunting but would actually just match my horse to my outfit and sit around for the aesthetic.
I’m splitting up my work into four weeks for better time management:
Week 1: Foundations: chemise, pocket hoops, and petticoat
Week 2: Undergarments: chemisette (shirt layer for the cuffs and collar to show through), waistcoat, and garters
Week 3: Over garments mock up and basic construction. Skirt. Jacket.
Week 4: Finishes like jacket trim, shoes, pocket, and gloves
Week one is officially out of the way which means it’s time for a progress report!
Chemise
The most basic undergarment is the chemise. Mine is made out of cotton broadcloth because it was on sale at Joanns for $1.99 a yard and there isn’t much that can beat that. I based mine off of these instructions and was extremely happy with the results. I appreciated that they had a few variations for different fits at the bottom of the page too!
finished chemise
Along with the blog above, I also referenced a costume construction book from Colonial Williamsburg that kindly includes lots of ratios and measurements in their pattern. This was relatively easy to plan, because everything is a rectangle. The main body is one long piece, the sleeves are basic rectangles, and the side gores are rectangles cut on the diagonal and stitched in with both wide pieces at the hem. It also has square underarm gussets and a drawstring neckline.
inside of flat felled seams
Since I wanted to make sure I had plenty of room in the bust, I had my gores extend all the way up to the gusset, which made for interesting flat felling, but look surprisingly crisp from the outside.
Intersection of the skirt gores (skinny piece from above), sleeve, and gusset (top right)
I stitched the main seams by machine, but hand-felled all inner seams to finish them off. To make the neckline, I just cut a slit to fit the neck of my dress form through, and cut away the extra I wanted. I intentionally didn’t make it too low in the front, but now I realize that if I ever make 18th c dresses, I will probably have to lower the neckline, as this one currently sits comfortably under my collar bones. I just didn’t think about that when I was making it, since the collar of the riding habit is all the way to the neck! (AAHHGHGH) To finish off the raw edge of the neckline, I sewed on a bias strip about 1/8” away from the edge, folded the other raw edge under, then hand stitched it down to form a channel where I threaded through some thin cording with a bodkin.
Pocket Hoops
Oh boy. These babies… Where do I begin (not with a pattern apparently). About 3 seconds before I was going to make the original bum pad/false rump to go under the dress, I panicked and started to do pocket hoops instead. Partially because I wanted a more dramatic silhouette, partially because I just want some pocket hoops. Who doesn’t want pocket hoops? They’re adorable!
my finished hoops
Since the same blog that I took the chemise pattern had a hoop pattern too, I decided to use this one too, since I was pleased with how well the chemise turned out. I’d wanted to use the American Duchess pattern in their new book, but mine was already overdue at the library ad had to give it back.
First, I took their layout and cut out two rectangles in the dimensions of my pocket hoops. It’s one long piece that gets stitched together on one side. The hooping channels extend for about 2/3 of the width, which pushes out the round shape you want while the back piece holds everything together in that half-circle shape that lays against your hips.
flat shape before inserting the hoops
I cut out strips for the channels, then folded down and ironed each side so I could just top-stitch everything down at once. I folded one raw edge over to keep the boning inside, then finished off all the extra raw edges (the top of the back piece that lays against the body, the pocket slit) with binding. Then, when all the raw edges were enclosed except the top one, I inserted the hooping and closed the final seam.
This is where I started to go wrong. Instead of actually reading the directions like I should have, I made all the hoops the same length and assumed that would be it. I was wrong!! My “finished” pocket hoops were far too boxy for what I wanted. They extended straight out from the hip instead of falling in the nice, curved shape they’re supposed to give. This is what I had:
this is why you read ALL the directions
By the time I realized I had to shorted the top two layers of hoops, I’d already finished off everything, so I had to rip out a few stitches at one side, pull out the hoops, cut them to the actual length they should be, refinish the new raw metal edge, and sew it back in. After that I also had to gather the hoop down to the length of the new hoop, which I did by hand from the back of the boning channel.
To keep everything in place, I sewed the top edge to a length of grosgrain ribbon I had lying around, then added pieces on the bottom two tiers on both front and back. The ends I sealed by melting the edges slightly over a flame. This keeps them from future fraying and is a method I prefer to fray check mostly because it involves fire.
Petticoat
This petticoat is made out of the lining I was supposed to use for my 1890’s skirt but then didn’t have enough to make. I don’t have a lot of breathing room in this budget, so I happily used it for this instead! It’s the same cotton twill I used for the pocket hoops. I like the weave on it plus the natural color that’s a lot more interesting than plain white.
I mostly followed the instructions from the American Duchess guide to historical dressmaking in regards to making their basic 1740’s petticoat. The only problem was that I’d gotten the book from the library and had only copied the pages I thought I’d need–aka the petticoat that didn’t allow for pocket hoops. I wanted to continue on with the pattern as it was, so I used the same techniques and made it much wider at the bottom to allow for an even hem and full coverage of the pocket hoops.
How I cut out long straight lines for the petticoat panels: pull one thread out, then cut it along the new line
After seaming all the panels together and hand-felling the seams closed, I hemmed one edge and pleated the other down to my approximate waist measurement with concentrated gathers at the hips to go over the extra room there. Since 18th c. skirts were adjusted at the waist, not the hem, I simply pleated far enough down the panels to make adjustments, then pinned it until the bottom of the hem hung evenly. I have to admit, this method feels so much easier to me than doing it the other way around!
making sure everything works before stitching down the pleats
Finally, I cut the excess off the top and attached a waistband of ribbon again to cut down on extra bulk around the waist. This opens and ties at either side of the waist, with finished edges for the pocket slit.
The hem hits me at mid-calf, but here it almost looks child-sized
Despite a few bumps along the way, I’m very happy with how these all have turned out and that I used a few authentic methods along the way. I’m also happy that I repurposed fabric for this, especially since that was a widespread and encouraged practice in actuality.
Next up: A chemisette, waistcoat, and garters! I already have some stockings I got from Colonial Williamsburg for Christmas a few years back, but I’m excited to accessorize them with some fancy ribbon!
For in between progress and more content, you can find me on instagram and tumblr.
Thanks for reading and if you know of any sewing challenges (self-made or widespread), please share them!
Wreathed in Violets 